Royal Palace Museum

The Lao kings’ royal palace in Luang Prabang has been converted into a museum – it’s the only example I know of a tourist attraction involving the monarchy in Laos.  The museum doesn’t go into much detail about the monarchy as a ruling institution, or the change of regimes, but it provides interesting glimpses into a different period.

No photos are allowed inside the museum itself, which is a modestly sized palace (though large if you had to mop it).  All rooms are large and airy, with high ceilings.  An external verandah surrounds an internal corridor which is framed in wooden shutters; inside this are suites of rooms flanking a central throne room which is, surprisingly, reminscent of the crimson room in the Brighton pavilion.  It's and unexpectedly red-with-lots-of-gilt-trimmings room, very imposing, and contains outsized furnishings (here thrones on a dias)...even as a museum it's an awe-inspiring room to enter.

One of the last rooms has 'presents' from other governments, which include gifts from President Nixon and the American people ("we give you this piece of lunar rock in the spirit of humanity and universal friendship for all mankind") at the same time they were bombing the shit out of the country (not very friendly!).  Australia (via Harold Holt) contributed some peculiar yellow rectangles - perhaps cigarette cases? - which look more like golden turds than something you'd actually want to receive.  The poor king.  

Toilet paper rollers at the back of the palace

Public bathrooms are at the back of the compound...and surprisingly well resourced.  Two women seem to have full time employment rolling toilet paper into individual portions.  

In the automobile museum were all five cars the monarchy ever had - from the first Citroen, given by the French in the 1920s or 30s, to the Fords donated by the Americans.  In 1975 (when the monarchy fell) all cars must have still been working - the photos of all five drivers employed at that point hang on the wall.  Their years of service show when a new car was added.  The oldest driver only had one eye - surely a professional hazard?

In the palace grounds are two petrol pumps - presumably only a very few people had cars, and they bought fuel directly from the king.  The most interesting thing about the pumps is that the Lao kip (the notes of which currently in circulation are 500, 1000, 2000, 5000, 10 000, 20 000, 50 000 and 100 000) used to be divided into ats.  I never realised there was anything smaller than a kip!

Also in the palace grounds is the Pra Bang Buddha statue in its own brand new temple - the statue for which Luang Prabang is named.  If you're not Buddhist it's hard to appreciate the finer qualities of this particular statue over the many, many others in Luang Prabang.

Pra Bang Temple