Amritsar I

Amritsar is home to Harmandir Sahib, the Golden Temple, which is a holy site for Sikhs.  It is a goal of most Sikhs to visit at least once; apparently it has more visitors each year than the Taj Mahal.

Everyone is barefoot in the Golden Temple complex; we took our shoes and socks off and left them in the minibus before we approached (we realised later this may have been a mistake).  Amritsar really is a tourist town: walking towards the Temple there were lots of hawkers.

After wandering through the town, I walked through the footbath at the Temple entrance, and into the complex.  It is very large and extremely peaceful, though there were many people.

The Temple itself is in the middle of a lake in the centre of the complex, with a path leading towards it from one side.  As is traditional, we walked gently around three sides of the complex to get to the walkway to the Temple.

Everyone in the Temple complex must cover their head, as well as take off their shoes.  Free disposable orange headscarves were available at the Temple entrances - about 100m before which a barrage of vendors tried to sell them to the unwary!

There were lots of non-Sikhs as well as Sikhs, and the atmosphere was peaceful, calm and friendly.  There was a surprising amount of movement (everyone is walking or bathing mostly) but the space is so large (much larger than the MCG I think) that it didn't feel crowded or rushed.  There was chanting being played over loudspeakers; occasionally someone would join in.

The side of the lake was lined with steps; occasionally men were bathing, and there were Sikhs doing maintenance, clearing leaves out of the water.  

There were bath houses for women who wanted to bathe with more modesty; like many people I dipped my hands and face into the water.

"Holy dip only for ladies"

The complex is very peaceful but there are Security Sikhs: I think they are probably to make sure the non-Sikhs keep their heads covered and no one acts disrespectfully.  They carry spears and look quite fierce, because Sikhs are warriors and so traditionally carry arms.

There are lifeboats at regular intervals.

After walking around, I bought prasad to take to the Temple where it is blessed and most is left with the Temple staff (for the benefit of those who can't afford it) while a small part is taken home to benefit the traveller's family.  I felt AQIS might not look kindly on prasad, so I left the food but took the blessings with me.

Queueing up to buy prasad - another time it's good to be in the (considerably shorter) women's line!

A lady with beautifully decorated hands holding prasad

I stood in a Very Long Line to get into the temple; it took about 90 minutes to cross the bridge over the lake.  Photography isn't allowed once you step onto the bridge; the temple itself, which covers two stories and a rooftop viewing platform is very ornate and very beautiful.  

Approaching the entrance to the bridge over the lake

All the Sikhs were very welcoming of strangers and I felt very lucky to be so welcomed into such a holy and deeply meaningful place.

Two Sikhs who had just visited the Golden Temple