Spirits in Lao PDR

Lao PDR is a predominantly Buddhist country; many people incorporate quiet, personal devotion into their daily lives.  This was described to me by a colleague as giving thanks before meals and taking time to acknowledge one’s blessings; not something one needed to talk about, just something one did.  My colleague was surprised by the western concept of grace, where thanks is given collectively before a meal.

I’ve observed Lao life intermittently over the last five years, but have not had any formal instruction in local practises.  The following observations are my best understanding of what’s happening, but may not always be correct!

 A that (pronounced “tat”) is a pointy structure which can vary from very ornate to a simple outline, large to small.  The larger ones generally contained a relict of great significance (e.g. a piece of Buddha’s breastbone) and are revered by all.  Smaller that contain the spirits of dead loved ones (I'm not sure if they also contain mortal remains, like ashes, or if they’re elsewhere) and are honoured by surviving family members.  These smaller that (particularly older ones) often form part of the wall surrounding a larger sim (temple complex), which may also contain a larger that within the complex.  That are sometimes all one type and other times are show great variety within the same group.

 There are also spirit houses: each building, business, home, and sometimes other objects, such as large trees or bridges, have their own spirit houses.  These are usually very ornately decorated miniature wats which contain the spirit of the house or building.  The Lao live in harmony with the spirits and honour them with food, incense and other offerings (flowers, cigarettes, sometimes whiskey) so the spirits will bless them and not make trouble.  Lao Buddhism has incorporated elements of animism, which has also been widely practised in some more rural areas.  In poorer dwellings the spirit house is less ornate but it is no less well tended or honoured than in the most elaborate business.