Sunday, 14 September 2014

Bhagalpur: 9-10 September 2014


Our current hotel is particularly, and unusually, idiosyncratic – the staff keep popping up to my room to offer odd services (turning the air conditioning on, ordering dinner for me) – presumably for tips – but are challenged by requests for things that are usually in rooms (soap, toilet paper, water).  If it wasn’t such a struggle to get the things I want out of them they’d be considerably better off for tips! 

The hotel is also infested with cockroaches...they’re only small and the Indians and Queenslanders are coping with them better than I am: I freaked out a bit when I found them (over the course of a few hours) roaming in my suitcase (I’d only just arrived!  Too soon!), on the walls, on the TV, on the headboard, and in my toiletry and dirty laundry bags.  I’ve now found a new use for DEET spray (my suitcase is now wearing more than I am) and I'm trying to remind myself that they’re better than fleas or bedbugs would be, and that in many countries they’re considered a delicacy. 

When all else fails I’m soothing my nerves with faux-Scottish whiskey from the off licence across the road...


The meeting in Bhagalpur has been more formal than earlier: the VC of the university is a man who is confident about his importance in the world and keen to ensure we recognise his position too.  We began with the full catastrophe (welcoming bouquets, speeches, responses) which we’ve not had to do elsewhere: fortunately we were warned yesterday that this might be on the cards and managed to dress accordingly (blazer and skirt, no comfy shalwar kameez here!).  The VC didn’t stick around after the official photo was taken so we were able to be more relaxed, and productive, once he’d left.


A new-to-me drink is jal jeera: it’s a savoury drink made with herbs and spices (and presumably something green) with puffed seeds floating on the top: it tastes a little like spiced chickpeas or nuts.  I’ve eaten this flavour before but never drunk it.  It’s very tasty and meant to be good for the digestion.


There’s a south Indian restaurant attached to the hotel – we’ve enjoyed dosa (large crispy pancakes from rice and chickpea flour with a curry filling, accompanied by various chutney and dhal for dipping) two nights running now.  The idli (leavened bread dumplings, also south Indian) we’ve had for breakfast have been less enjoyable than the dosa (I think idli might just be an acquired taste).








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