End of Bangladesh: 5 September 2014

Bangladeshi emigration office

We started early for the border, and arrived at Bangladesh border control about 9.30am.  Things are pretty relaxed at this particular land crossing – it looks like you’re arriving at someone’s (large) house, rather than the End of Bangladesh – although four people turning up at once on uncommon (not Indian or Bangladeshi) passports rather threw the first official, who turned us over to his boss to process.  Once we’d done the emigration formalities we wandered round the back of the compound to customs (the office had great curtains) and then, only an hour after we arrived, we were free to leave Bangladesh. 

Bangladesh customs

At the End of Bangladesh

Other times I’ve crossed by land between countries (in Europe and between Lao PDR and Thailand) you drive across or, in a pinch, drive to the border point, escort your bag across (for maybe 20m, in a fairly large covered em/immigration area), and then get back in the vehicle and drive on.  Not here – we walked a couple of hundred meters of no man’s land, through a 700+ year old gate, and into India.  Or almost – we still had to wait for the bureaucracy to process us.

Walking into India

Getting permission to enter India is a three step process: first there’s a preliminary passport control, then ICP (Immigration Check Point), where they processed our passports, then finally there’s customs.  The process differs considerably from that at airports and the Pakistani border, which are a) computerised and b) take significantly less time J

Indian passport control

ICP building – very hot under the iron roof!

It was incredibly hot and humid – I think one of the least comfortable days we’ve experienced here – and we were all dripping pretty early (it would have been worse if it was raining).  There was plenty to look at while we were waiting (border guards checking trucks, lots of people waiting for friends to arrive, other travellers) but in the end the heat got to us and we just sat round waiting.  We were finally done after three hours, and were lucky to have got through that quickly – some kind person in customs took pity on us and bumped us to the head of the queue. 

Family walking into Bangladesh

Waiting for arrivals from Bangladesh

We were collected by our Indian colleagues (who had themselves been waiting at the border for us from 9.30am!) and driven through Malda and to our hotel, which sadly is a bit outside the city.  The hotel is fine but isolated.  I haven’t been outside for a couple of days now – mostly because the only reason to go would be a walk along the very busy highway which is not attractive (or safe).  Our days are very busy and long (more on that later) and I've not been too bothered that I’ve been indoors so much.  I am, however, looking forward to getting out into the field again today – I think we’re all feeling a little sluggish for lack of exercise.